How are you attaching Twine to things?
  • I've been using this 3M removable mounting tape that doesn't damage anything: http://www.amazon.com/3M-109-Wallsaver-Removable-Mounting/dp/B00004Z4BR/

    I saw that other people were using things like duct tape. What else are you using?
  • 14 Comments sorted by
  • Great thought. Anyone just put a nail or string through Twine's hole? You could also punch a hole through the back of the sleeve, or thread a strap between the sleeve and inner case.

    The sensors each have two .148" holes designed for a standard screw size - I can't remember which right now.

    And another question is, how would people like to attach Twine to things?
  • John -
    How about a hard shell or sleeve design that's somewhat cut down in the front face (say almost down to the battery compartment) with one or two screw holes on the back. Countersunk and hard shell for easy removal for battery replacement. Easily mountable on the inside of a door to lert when sensing movement.
  • Robert,
    From the photos in your article it looks like the machine screw used to attach twine has a nut behind the metal panel on the garage door. So it might be difficult to remove when you need to change batteries. A better way would be to insert the machine screw from behind the panel and use a nut on the front side to hold the screw in place. Then slide the twine over the threaded portion of the screw and use a wing nut to hold the twine in place. For attaching to solid wood, for example, use a hanger bolt and wing nut.
  • Hi Bill, you are absolutely right, a wing nut applied on the front side would make for a better installation to accomodate battery changes. I just used parts that I had laying around the house and this is what I ended up with, but the wing nut would be a better long term approach.

    Also, the hole in the Twine is practically the same size as the #6 machine screw and had to be threaded though. It fits, but it is tight. So for the ability to easily slide on and off, a #4 screw may prove to be a better choice.

    Thanks - Robert
  • I have updated the article to inclue Bill's suggestions.
    http://www.savagehomeautomation.com/projects/twine-garage-door-monitor.html

    Basically, this is what the install would look like using the wing nut:
    http://www.savagehomeautomation.com/storage/post-images/twine/TwineMounting.png
  • Robert - just to prolong this I noticed in my local Ace hardware store, which has a wide selection of fasteners, the smallest wing nuts were #6. Of course a regular 4-40 nut would work too, but they did have metric #3 screws and wing nuts which fit equally well.
  • @Bill - Great info! (added as footnote to article)
  • I tried stick-on velcro to fasten my Twine to the garage door. The velcro did not hold to the Twine's silicon cover and kept falling off. I finally used model glue to permanently glue velcro strips to the Twine. A bit of a permanent solution, but I decided that since the Twine will always be hidden, no matter what future use I find, two permanent fuzzy-sided velcro strips made no difference.
  • 2 Questions:

    1- Is there any setting to ensure that the Twine update rate remains at least every 5min? I know it likes to switch itself into power saving mode, unless you intervene.

    2 - Any calculations on battery life for this usage?
  • Hi Robert,

    >> 1- Is there any setting to ensure that the Twine update rate remains at least every 5min? I know it likes to switch itself into power saving mode, unless you intervene.

    I don't think there is any way to force the communication frequency on a permanent basis at this time. However, the Twine device does attempt communication when a change is detected and a rule causes a trigger to file. So in my garage door implementation when the Twine changes orientation and the configured rule time elapses, the Twine does send out the notifications almost immediately.

    >> 2 - Any calculations on battery life for this usage?

    I think there are some other threads on battery life here in the forums with varied results. My Twine is already telling me that that batteries are low after a week. But to be fair, I have been playing with it all week and have not tested under real world conditions.

    For a permanent installation, it may be better to use a magnetic garage door sensor and the Twine Breakout board and power the Twine externally. That way your would not have to deal with batteries on a regular basis. See this thread for additional discussion on the door sensor approach: http://community.supermechanical.com/index.php?p=/discussion/109/using-twine-to-monitor-garage-door-and-send-reminder-notifications#Item_9
  • An angle bracket bolted to the item you want to attach Twine to, so that a you have a protruding flat metal prong, lets you slide Twine on. The prong is between the side of the twine guts where it is just plastic and nothing to damage and the outer rubber. Holds it very well and will not interfere with the transmissions. Just slides on and off for maintenance.
  • In my latest Twine project (http://www.savagehomeautomation.com/projects/twine-garage-door-monitor-revisit.html) I used a two nail approach. I used a 4D finish nail to hang the Twine on through its existing hole and a 6D common nail on the right-hand side of the Twine to hold it in place and to help keep it from moving forward.

    Photo:
    http://www.savagehomeautomation.com/storage/thumbnails/13113340-21215023-thumbnail.jpg
  • I just ordered some Neodymium magnets that are 12mm round x 1.5mm thick. Super glue a few them to the back of the PCB and it should hold to metal surfaces. Or if that's not strong enough, glue them to the silicone cover, or even embed them into it to be neater.

    Another way is a thin piece of metal, or even plastic, say 60x90mm. Attach that to whatever using screws, and slide the TWINE onto it between the FRONT FACE and the silicone cover. Make sure you smooth any sharp edges first. If using metal, remember to keep the TWINE between the metal and WiFi access point, or it'll reduce the signal level.

    Be weary of staying clear of the solder points on the PCB, there's a possibility of shorting the batteries.

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